What's interesting about these five recent books set in Mumbai is that they bring us glimpses of the city, from the Thirties to the present day, in almost chronological order.
This piece appeared in the March 2012 issue of MW Magazine.
If you were to arrive at Mumbai’s Sahar airport and take a
taxi all the way to the Taj Mahal hotel in Colaba, you would travel through not
one city, but several.
There would be the city of the slums bordering the
airport, the blue tarpaulin roofs of which you would have been able to spot even
as the plane was circling above. There would then be the neighbourhoods from
Andheri to Bandra, the tony coffee shops and meretricious pubs of which would
be filled with scriptwriters, actors, models and others looking for the break to
transform their lives. If an especially chatty driver was behind the wheel of
the taxi you were in, he’d tell you of his world, of how his current occupation
was just a stop-gap before he hit the big time with a home-grown scheme or two.
After a quick glance at the rear-view mirror to assess his chances, he might
even offer to escort you to the city’s quarters of ill-repute, where, he would
affirm, you would be able to sample the pleasures of drugs or the flesh.
Shrugging off his offers, you would look out of the window to find yourself in
the area of Mumbai called “the town” by suburban commuters. Sweeping down the
Art Deco bordered sea-face to the mock Gothic buildings that still speak of
colonial solidity, you’d finally reach your destination, the hotel that, though
scarred by a recent, horrific act of terrorism, still stands as a beacon of civility
and repose.
Centuries ago, the roads you just travelled down didn’t
exist; it was a series of reclamation projects – not to mention the fortunes
that arose from trade in opium and cotton -- that unified the seven islands to create
the city you witnessed. Now, five authors of recently published books seek to
reclaim older memories and more contemporary ways of life, charting, almost in
reverse chronological order, the ages of Mumbai that made up your journey from
airport to hotel.
The Mumbai of the three decades from 1935 -- a time of
intermingling, of civility and of hospitality -- is what Naresh Fernandes brings alive in his Taj Mahal Foxtrot. Even those not alive
during those years would be nostalgic about this age of “conspicuous
cosmopolitanism”; in fact, to look at the photographs that the book is
sprinkled with is to wonder whether this really was the same city you see when
looking out of the window today.
Fernandes unearths the often-ignored legacy of the jazz
musicians who came here from the US and Europe as well as home-grown talent,
much of it from Goa. The “energetic, improvised form” of the book celebrates a
long-gone culture, chronicling visits by Louis Armstrong, Dave Brubeck and
others, and the rapturous reception they received – not to mention Frank
Fernand and Chic Chocolate, and the latter’s effect on Hindi film music because
of his participation in the songs of Bhagwan’s Albela.
The grand ballroom of the Taj Mahal played host to many a
memorable concert, and Fernandes also mentions other institutions, now vanished
from sight if not memory: Napoli and Bombelli’s in Churchgate, for instance. Though
the recollections are largely effervescent – such as the time when the combined
bands of Chic Chocolate and Micky Correa launched into a jaunty swing version
of Jana Gana Mana to cheering crowds at the Taj on the night of August 14,
1947 – there’s also an elegiac quality to the book. Scott Fitzgerald wrote of
America’s Jazz Age that “it was an age of
miracles, it was an age of art, it was an age of excess, and it was an age of
satire’, and, as TajMahal Foxtrot
makes clear, Mumbai itself experienced such an age.
It was a city, Fernandes writes in summation, “that gave
everyone the space to play their own melody the way they heard it”. Before you
can do so, he himself adds tersely: “That era has passed.” The city rode into
the Sixties on waves of rising populist agitations but optimism undimmed. This
is the Mumbai of Kiran Nagarkar’s novel,
The
Extras, his follow-up to
Ravan and
Eddie, and reading it is like listening to the tales told by an interesting
yet garrulous uncle reminiscing about his past. It follows the fortunes of Ram
Pawar and Eddie Coutinho as they make their way through a city teeming with
people and stories. The music they’re inspired by is not jazz but pop and rock
standards as well as, of course, Bollywood songs, initially performed in the
novel by local “brass bandwallahs”.
Life as a taxi driver, as a film extra and as a music
composer: through Ravan and Eddie’s occupations, Nagarkar paints a picture of a
city impatient to get ahead. The pace of Mumbai is already frantic: one of the
characters observes that her life is like a counter on a carom board, hurtling
from one corner to another. Nagarkar’s characters grow increasingly anxious to
break out of their ways of life at the crumbling CWD chawl in Mazagaon, as a
fictional Maiboli Sangh launches a ‘Maharashtra for Maharashtrians’ agitation
and underworld dons seek to carve out fiefdoms. That representatives of both
these types would, in years to come, scar the city forever is what you can discern
between the lines.
At one point, with trademark irreverence, Nagarkar has
Ravan muse that national integration could only truly be found on Falkland
Road, the city’s red-light district, as women of all nationalities were to be
found there. That infamous area – as your taxi driver would have informed you
-- is bordered by Shuklaji Street, where you could once discover integration of
another kind, the one forged by smoking opium. This “city of O” is what you come
across in Jeet Thayil’s debut novel, Narcopolis.
Primarily set in the Seventies, this is a hallucinatory ode to Mumbai: the
“hero or heroin” of the story.
In
Narcopolis is to be found a city
wallowing in its refuse, as the narrative interweaves the lives of those such
as Dimple, a hijra with a penchant for reading; Rumi, a violent and desperate
businessman; Mr Lee, a refugee from mainland China; Dom, the narrator, who
speaks of “visitations from absent friends”, stories that are “straight from
the pipe’s mouth”; and Rashid, the owner of the opium den in which the others
congregate.
It’s a chemical
romance that begins and ends with the word “Bombay”, where all manner of
depravity arising out of addiction is on parade. When the novel moves on from
the Seventies in tracing the decline in the characters’ lives, you find an
elegy for an earlier time: “Already now there were
times when he could feel it slipping away, a way of life vanishing as he
watched, the pipes, the oil lamps layered with years of black residue, the
conversations that a man would begin and lose interest in, all the rituals that
he revered and obeyed, all disappearing.”
Narcopolis sweeps on to cover the aftermath of the bloody 1992/93
riots, “when the city killed itself” and after which the narrator begins to see
the metropolis as an “image of my cancelled self: an object of dereliction,
deserving only of pity, closed, in all ways, to the world”.
For others, though, the city represents a way to validate
the self, not to cancel it. Like Ravan and Eddie, these aspirants seek to break
into the world of film and TV; that most who pursue such dreams fall by the
wayside is no deterrent. This is the backdrop to the by-now well-known saga of
Maria Susairaj, Neeraj Grover and Emile Jerome, names gleefully pounced upon by
the tabloids just some years ago.
The tragedy is recounted with chilling exactitude in Meenal
Baghel’s Death in Mumbai. This is the
Mumbai of the 2000s, brash and unapologetic about reaching out to grasp the
brass ring, its values amoral and avaricious. It’s not an attitude that’s
spoken about when you hear the words, “the spirit of Mumbai”. The suburb of
Oshiwara and its environs, where much of the book is set, is revealed to be “an
ocean of anxious insecure, ambitious, competitive, vulnerable and often
rudderless people”.
Baghel meets those known to and touched by Grover’s murder
– friends, families, colleagues, room-mates – to create a riveting narrative.
In her hands, the affair isn’t just a triangle; it’s a polygon, with numerous
sides encompassing a murky centre. She
also talks to those such as TV and film producer Ekta Kapur and director Ram
Gopal Varma – the latter referred to as “cinema’s equivalent of an ambulance
chaser”. Stating that “crime, not Bollywood is our salutary entertainment”,
Baghel illustrates the intermingling of the two, pointing out that Love Sex Dhokha was “an edgy triptych
about sexual betrayal, cinematic aspirations and parental disapproval – themes
that deeply resonated with Neeraj’s killing.”
Death in Mumbai, then, is a well-researched cautionary tale, reportage
that reaches beyond the incident it describes. Another such example set in
another suburb of the city, Katherine Boo’s
Behind
the Beautiful Forevers, is the most compelling of these books. Boo takes us
into the slum of Annawadi, bordering the international airport and in the shadow
of luxury hotels, to reveal people hanging on by their fingernails to
globalisation’s promise of a better tomorrow. As she writes, in just one of the
book’s many memorable phrases, “Annawadians now spoke of better lives casually,
as if fortune were a cousin arriving on Sunday, as if the future woul
d look nothing like the past”. Things are bleaker with the economic
downturn: “We try so many things,” says one slum-dweller, “but the world
doesn't move in our favour”.
At first, one is reluctant to get deeper into the book:
surely, one has had one’s fill of spirited recreations of those from the slums,
especially on screen. Below this is the reluctance to engage with familiar
middle-class guilt. To overcome those qualms is to find that Boo’s book is
necessary reading: amazingly detailed, accurate and revelatory of an
“enriching, unequal world” where “anger and hope were being privatized” like
much else in the city. Corruption is everywhere; government agencies are
“operating as private market stalls not public guardians”.
The characters that populate the “undercity” of Annawadi are
a far cry from jazz musicians and star aspirants, and the only addicts here are
those who get high by sniffing discarded bottles of correction fluid. There’s
Abdul, a garbage picker accused of a horrific crime and caught up in a web of
courtroom appearances, police cells and detention centres to outrival Dickens.
There’s the ambitious Asha, who believes that politics is her way out of the
slum: “She had by now seen past the obvious truth – that Mumbai was a hive of
hope and ambition – to a profitable corollary. Mumbai was a place of festering
grievance and ambient envy”.
Though Boo’s book is more a critique of what the forces of
globalization do to the underclass than a book about Mumbai, you soon realize
that it could only have been set in this city, with an ever-growing influx of
migrants, and with political collusion and corruption leading to the
proliferation of shantytowns.
Behind the
Beautiful Forevers is not without its
moments of grim humour – a youth engaging in petty theft is referred to as a
“new economy saboteur” – but the overall picture that emerges is that of
adapting to an uncaring environment, if not downright resignation. These
slumdogs don’t want to be millionaires; they just want to lead a life more
decent than the ones they live at present.
For some, then,
it’s still a maximum city; for others, it has a minimal future. Some arrive
here hoping to find streets paved with gold; others realize that they’re filled
with no more than garbage. Whichever version of Mumbai you inhabit, from
swinging past to crumbling present, the city has always found a way, as these
five books reveal, to both surpass and confound expectations.