This week's column for the Sunday Guardian.
Restoration in progress in an Alhambra courtyard |
In
an alcove of the former palace of the Nasrids in Granada, you can see artisans hard
at work in restoring faded friezes. Under their hands, the Alhambra comes back
to life; the results, evident in the courtyards of the complex, are remarkable.
Writers
of fiction have, over the years, engaged in Alhambra restoration of their own. These
are recreations of the lost glory of Al-andalus, notably, of its civilized intermingling
of culture and religion. The contrast with today’s polarized times couldn’t be
more stark.
In
English, among the first and most influential of such books was Tales of the Alhambra by Washington
Irving, better-known for his stories of Sleepy Hollow and Rip Van Winkle. First
published in 1882, these folktales and fabrications are often overblown and over-romanticized:
“Surrounded with the insignia of regal sway, and the still vivid, though
dilapidated traces of oriental voluptuousness, I was in the strong-hold of
Moorish story, and everything spoke and breathed of the glorious days of
Granada, when under the dominion of the crescent”.
The room Washington Irving is supposed to have inhabited |
Visit
the Alhambra today and you’ll come across a plaque outside the room that Irving
is supposed to have lived in when he wrote his tales; the actual location,
however, is in a section closed to visitors. Repackaging the West's fantasy of
the palace, the audio guide quotes Irving liberally, and locally-published editions
of his book are available in every souvenir store.
The
vanished grandeur of Arab Ghranata is also the subject of Shadows of the Pomegranate Tree, the first novel of Tariq Ali’s
Islam Quintet. This elegiac story of the fortunes of a Moorish family after the
Reconquista shows Ali to be a better polemicist than novelist. Laden with
dialogue, it recounts the strategies Granadians adopted to ensure their
survival, from conversion to conciliation to conflict. The Alhambra here is a brooding
presence from where edicts are issued by its Catholic conquerors, personified
by the real-life Ximenes des Cisneros who once famously ordered that Arabic
books be burnt in the city’s public square.
More
successful as a novel is Amin Maalouf’s Leo
Africanus, originally in French, which tells of the 15th and 16th
century journeys of al-Hasan ibn Muhammad al-Wazzan al-Fasi, the titular hero. The
first section is set in Granada, where Leo is born and spends his early life, and
has a vibrant Arabian Nights tonality, with picaresque characters and tales from
a lost homeland. In “this palace of the Alhambra, glory of glories and marvel
of marvels”, the penultimate Sultan presides over extravagant parades and
hedonistic parties, willfully ignorant of the storm to come.
A view of the Alhambra from Granada's Paseo del Padre Manjón |
In
these and other such works, the Alhambra is emblematic of bygone brilliance, a
place whose epitaph wasn’t composed in words but in the form of a sigh heaved
by Boabdil, the last Sultan, at his last sight of it. In making use of a
vanished Moorish past in The Moor’s Last
Sigh, Salman Rushdie has something more ambitious in mind: a conflation of
Granada with Bombay-turned-Mumbai: “Just as the fanatical ‘Catholic Kings’ had
besieged Granada and awaited the Alhambra’s fall, so now barbarism was standing
at our gates. O Bombay! Prima in Indis!
Gateway to India! Star of the East with her face to the West! Like Granada…you
were the glory of your time. But a darker time came upon you, and just as
Boabdil, the last Nasrid Sultan, was too weak to defend his great treasure, so
we, too, were proved wanting.”
The
narrator, Moraoes Zogoiby, claiming descent from Boabdil, visits Spain only in
the final section, when he is incarcerated in a bizarre replica called “little
Alhambra”. The theme, however, is prevalent from the start, not least in the form
of the paintings of his mother, the redoubtable Aurora Zogoiby. One of them is termed
“a Bombay remix of the last of the Nasrids”, not a bad description of the novel
itself.
Europe’s
own red fort, then, still tantalizes. It’s a monument to past possibilities, a testament,
in Rushdie’s words again, “to our need for flowing together, for putting an end
to frontiers”. Now that’s worth restoring.